Standarts of beauty, particularly for women, have always featured youth as hallmark. As time passes, we all start to worry about the effects of the ageing process – the wrinkles, loose sking, sagging and uneven skin tone. Creams will not help skin sagging or laxity. But they can be used to reduce pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, and to slow down the signs, associated with skin aging. These include retinoids, antioxidants, botanicals and sunscreen.
Retinoids
The retinoid famiлy consists of a group of compounds that are derived from Vitamin A. These have been available in skincare since the 1970s and are the only topical agents that repeatedly demonstrate anti-ageing effects in scientific studies.
Retinoids are able to:
-minimize the appearance of wrinkles;
-slow the breakdown of collagen;
-fade pigmentation/age spots
Retinyl esters, retinol, retinaldehyde, adapalene, tretinoin, isotretinoin and tazarotene are all different types of retinoid. Retinyl esters are converted to retinol, then retinaldehyde, then retinoic acid.
Products that require the fewest conversion steps tend to me more effective for anti-ageing purposes, but also more irritating.(for ex. Retinol is stronger than retinyl esters and retinaldehyde is stronger than retinol etc.)
RETINYL ESTERS->RETINOL*->RETINALDEHYDE->RETINOIC ACID
*Retinol derivates – retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate and retinyl palmitate
So, if you are looking for a suitable over-the-counter retinoid product, choose one that contains either retinol or retinaldehyde. These are likely to be more effective than the retinol derivates.
What should I buy? Avoid retinyl derivates and esters as they are not as effective. Over-the-counter products contain retinol or retinaldehyde. If buying a retinol product, check that it contains a minimum concentration of 0.1%. Consult with your dermatologist which product is the best for you regarding your skin type, age and needs.
When I should start using these? From your late 20s onwards.
What is the best way to use them? Retinoids are best used at night after cleansing the skin, a small pea-sized amount should be adequate. It can take three to six months of regular use before any improvement in the skin will be seen. If the skin feels dry and tight, moisturizer can be applied 20-30 minutes later.
Are there any side effects? Retinoids can initially cause redness and irritation, so it may be wise to gradually build up use, from 2 or 3 times a week to every night if your skin will tolerate it. Skin treated with retinoid is sensitive to ultraviolet radiation and at risk of burning, sunlight also makes the product less effective. Night-time retinoid use should be combined with daily regular broad spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30, selected for the skin type of the patient.
Retinoids are a wonderful tool in preventing and reversing aging. Used wisely, they have a number of beneficial effects that our skin will reward us for.
